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koby abberton on Instagram: "I used to get Regular spinal adjustments in the surf. Massive chance slab surfers & big wave surfers will have CTE. Sometimes I question my actions.. Ours In an ESE low tide swell the wave direction goes straight into the rocks. That ese swell direction makes the wave go 2/3ft below sea level and square. It also causes huge backwash and makes for some crazy wipeouts like this one. Here’s a fun one. It spat me out and bounced me at the same time I was blinded by the s
koby abberton on Instagram: "I used to get Regular spinal adjustments in the surf. Massive chance slab surfers & big wave surfers will have CTE. Sometimes I question my actions.. Ours In an ESE low tide swell the wave direction goes straight into the rocks. That ese swell direction makes the wave go 2/3ft below sea level and square. It also causes huge backwash and makes for some crazy wipeouts like this one. Here’s a fun one. It spat me out and bounced me at the same time I was blinded by the s
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